Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – little-known gems that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
